When you hear the word “acid,” your brain probably jumps straight to science class, bubbling beakers, or maybe even something dangerous that can melt through metal. But in skincare? Acids are the unsung heroes that can literally change your skin game. They exfoliate, brighten, smooth, hydrate, and even tackle breakouts.
The catch? Not all acids love all skin types. Some will treat your skin like royalty, while others will betray you like a bad situationship. Some look good at first, but after a few swipes (or uses), you realize they were not meant for you.
So, which acids should you invite into your skincare routine, and which ones should you kindly leave at the door? Let’s break it down.
Glycolic Acid (For Normal to Oily Skin)
If acids were ranked by popularity, glycolic would be the prom queen. It’s derived from sugarcane and has the smallest molecule size among AHAs, meaning it penetrates deeply and works fast.
What it does best:
- Exfoliates dead skin cells
- Brightens dull skin
- Smooths texture
- Softens fine lines
Best for: Normal, oily, or combo skin.
Why I love it: It gives that fresh-faced kind of glow.
Caution: It can be too intense for sensitive or dry skin. If your face feels like it’s auditioning for a fire-breathing dragon role, tone it down.
Lactic Acid (For Sensitive or Dry Skin)
Think of lactic acid as glycolic’s gentler cousin. It’s larger in molecule size, so it doesn’t go as deep. Instead, it gently exfoliates on the surface.
What it does best:
- Mild exfoliation
- Hydration (yes, it helps keep moisture in!)
- Brightening dark spots
Best for: Dry or sensitive skin.
Pro tip: If glycolic felt too harsh, lactic acid might be your safe zone. It’s like switching from espresso shots to herbal tea, you’ll still feel the benefits, just without the jitters.
Mandelic Acid (For Acne-Prone Skin)
Mandelic comes from bitter almonds and is the most underrated AHA out there. Its molecules are bigger than both glycolic and lactic, which makes it slower and gentler, but don’t underestimate it.
What it does best:
- Fights acne
- Reduces hyperpigmentation
- Smooths texture without irritation
Best for: Acne-prone or darker skin tones that are prone to hyperpigmentation.
Fun fact: Dermatologists often recommend it for people who break out easily because it’s tough on bacteria but kind to your skin barrier.
BHAs: The Deep-Cleaners
Salicylic Acid (For Oily and Acne-Prone Skin)
Ah, the legend. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it dives straight into your pores to unclog gunk like a little skincare plumber.
What it does best:
- Clears blackheads and whiteheads
- Controls oil
- Prevents breakouts
Best for: Oily, congested, or acne-prone skin.
Why I swear by it: It literally saved my forehead from looking like a connect-the-dots puzzle in my teen years.
Note: If your skin is Sahara-dry, skip this one, it can make things worse.
Hydrating Acids: The Skin-Soothers
Hyaluronic Acid (For All Skin Types)
Technically not an exfoliating acid, but this one deserves a spotlight. Hyaluronic acid is a hydration magnet, it can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
What it does best:
- Keeps skin plump
- Smooths fine lines
- Boosts moisture levels
Best for: Literally everyone.
Quick tip: Always apply it on damp skin, then seal it with a moisturizer. Otherwise, it might pull water out of your skin (and no one wants that).
Polyglutamic Acid (For Dry or Mature Skin)
This one doesn’t get enough hype. Polyglutamic acid holds even more water than hyaluronic, making it a super hydrator.
What it does best:
- Intense hydration
- Strengthens skin barrier
- Works well with other actives
Best for: Dry or mature skin that feels tight or dull.
My verdict: Think of it as hyaluronic acid’s overachieving sibling.
Acids That Target Pigmentation
Azelaic Acid (For Rosacea and Pigmentation)
Azelaic acid is like the calm, reliable friend in your skincare circle. It doesn’t cause drama, and it quietly does the work.
What it does best:
- Evens skin tone
- Reduces redness and rosacea
- Fights mild acne
Best for: Sensitive, rosacea-prone, or hyperpigmented skin.
Why I recommend it: It’s multitasking without being aggressive. Win-win.
Kojic Acid (For Stubborn Dark Spots)
Kojic acid comes from mushrooms and is famous for brightening.
What it does best:
- Fades hyperpigmentation
- Brightens dull skin
Best for: People targeting stubborn dark spots.
Caution: It can be irritating if overused. Think of it like hot sauce—amazing in small doses, but don’t pour it on everything.
Acids to Avoid (Depending on Your Skin Type)
Here’s the tea: not every acid will vibe with you. Some might even make things worse.
- Sensitive skin? Avoid strong glycolic acid or high concentrations of salicylic. Stick to lactic or azelaic.
- Dry skin? Skip daily salicylic acid. Instead, embrace hydrating acids like hyaluronic or polyglutamic.
- Oily skin? Don’t overdo hydrating acids alone. Pair them with exfoliants like salicylic to keep oil in check.
- Acne-prone skin? Avoid overly harsh physical scrubs and high-strength glycolic peels unless supervised by a derm.
Basically, don’t let FOMO push you into trying every acid you see trending on TikTok. Your skin deserves better than being treated like a chemistry experiment.
How to Safely Add Acids to Your Routine
Because yes, acids are powerful… but use them wrong, and you’ll end up Googling “why does my face feel like it’s on fire?” at 2 a.m.
Golden rules for acids:
- Start slow: 1–2 times a week, then build up.
- Patch test: Always. Don’t skip this.
- Never mix certain acids: For example, don’t pair strong glycolic with retinol unless you want chaos.
- Moisturize after: Acids exfoliate, so you need hydration to balance.
- SPF every morning: Acids make your skin more sun-sensitive. No excuses here.
Conclusion
Skincare acids aren’t one-size-fits-all. The best one for you depends on your skin type, your goals, and your tolerance level.
- Oily and acne-prone? Go for salicylic or mandelic.
- Dry and sensitive? Stick to lactic, hyaluronic, or azelaic.
- Pigmentation issues? Try kojic or azelaic.
- Mature or dull skin? Glycolic, lactic, or polyglutamic will be your besties.
The key? Listen to your skin. It’ll tell you what it loves and what it hates, loudly. And remember, acids are tools, not magic potions. Pair them with consistency, hydration, and sunscreen, and you’ll be golden.
So, which acid are you reaching for tonight? 🙂
