Acids sound scary. I mean, who came up with the idea of putting acid on your face and calling it skincare? But here we are, years later, realizing they’re actually miracle workers when used right.
The trick, though, is knowing which acid belongs on your skin. Because if you’ve ever wondered why your exfoliating toner worked wonders for someone else but made your skin rebel, you’re not alone. It’s not the acid’s fault; it’s about finding the right one for your skin type.
So, let’s break it down and figure out which acid will actualy like you back.
1. For Oily and Acne-Prone Skin: Go for BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)
If you constantly feel like your face is plotting against you by mid-afternoon with that excess shine, you’re probably dealing with excess oil and clogged pores. Consider BHAs, your skin’s ultimate deep-cleaning agent.
Why they work: BHAs (e.g salicylic acid) go deep into your pores, dissolve oil, and unclog blackheads and whiteheads from within. They’re basically the vacuum cleaners of the skincare world (see what i did there?).
Top choices to consider:
- Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant – the cult favorite for a reason. It unclogs pores without leaving your skin feeling stripped.
- The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution – affordable, simple, and does the job beautifully.
- COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid – gentle enough for beginners but still packs results.
Pro tip: Start slow, once or twice a week is ideal and moisturize afterward. Salicylic acid can over-dry your skin if you go too hard too soon.
2. For Dry or Dehydrated Skin: Try AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
Dry skin can feel tight, dull, and rough, which is not in tune with the soft-feminine vibe we want to give. The good news? AHAs are the perfect exfoliating acids for you.
Why they work: AHAs exfoliate the surface of your skin, removing dead cells that block moisture. They also help your moisturizer sink in better.
Best AHAs for dry skin:
- Lactic Acid; super gentle and hydrating (great if your skin’s easily irritated).
- Glycolic Acid; slightly stronger, brightens dull skin and smooths texture.
Top products to try:
- The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% or 10% + HA – gives glow without sting.
- Pixi Glow Tonic (5% Glycolic Acid) – a classic that leaves skin radiant and soft.
- Naturium Mandelic Topical Acid 12% – ideal if you want exfoliation with zero irritation.
Pro tip: Always follow up with a moisturizer and SPF. Acids make your skin baby-smooth and more sun-sensitive.
3. For Combination Skin: Mix AHAs and BHAs (Yes, You Can)
Combination skin can feel like dealing with two personalities. Your T-zone’s oily, your cheeks are dry, and your chin can’t decide. The secret? Balancing acids.
You can mix BHAs to unclog oily areas and AHAs to brighten and smooth drier zones.
Smart combo routine:
- Use a salicylic acid toner (like Paula’s Choice BHA) on your T-zone.
- Follow with a gentle AHA serum (like The Ordinary Lactic Acid) on your cheeks and chin.
Or, if you prefer simplicity:
- Try Naturium BHA Liquid Exfoliant 2% – it combines salicylic acid with fruit enzymes, giving the best of both worlds.
Pro tip: Don’t layer both acids at once if you’re new to them. Alternate nights or apply them to different areas of your face.
4. For Sensitive Skin: Stick With PHA or Lactic Acid
If your skin throws a tantrum at the mere thought of actives, PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) are gentler options.
Why they work: PHAs exfoliate just like AHAs but with larger molecules that don’t penetrate as deeply. Translation: less irritation, more glow.
Great options:
- The Inkey List PHA Toner – super mild, perfect for daily use.
- Neostrata PHA Lotion Plus – dermatologist-approved and hydration-packed.
- Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Toner – hydrating, soothing, and smells like a fruity dream.
If PHAs are too mild: Try lactic acid (in a low percentage) once or twice a week. It gently smooths texture and evens tone without making your skin angry.
Pro tip: Always patch-test. Sensitive skin loves surprises and not the fun kind.
5. For Normal Skin: Lucky You, You Can Handle Most Acids
If your skin rarely freaks out, congrats, you’re basically the chosen one. You can experiment freely with most acids.
Best options for maintenance and glow:
- Glycolic Acid – for a radiant, even tone.
- Mandelic Acid – for texture and mild exfoliation.
- Lactic Acid – for gentle hydration.
Top product picks:
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution – budget-friendly and effective.
- Alpha-H Liquid Gold (with Glycolic Acid) – a luxe option that feels like a spa in a bottle.
- Naturium Mandelic Topical Acid 12% – smooths without irritation.
Pro tip: Even if your skin’s chill, ease acids into your routine slowly. Balance is everything, glowing, not peeling, is the goal.
6. For Hyperpigmentation and Uneven Tone: Try Glycolic or Mandelic Acid
If dark spots or acne scars are stealing your glow, glycolic acid and mandelic acid are your best bets.
Why:
- Glycolic acid accelerates cell turnover, helping fade pigmentation faster.
- Mandelic acid, being gentler, is perfect for deeper skin tones or easily irritated skin.
Top picks:
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% – great for toning and brightening.
- Naturium Mandelic Topical Acid 12% – reduces pigmentation and supports clarity.
- Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum – pricey, but an overnight glow booster.
Pro tip: Pair acids with niacinamide (like The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc) to prevent irritation and boost results.
7. For Aging or Dull Skin: Glycolic and Lactic Acids Are Your Glow Team
As we age, our skin’s renewal process slows down. That’s why it starts to look dull or uneven. AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid gently exfoliate, revealing smoother, fresher skin underneath.
Favorite formulas:
- Pixi Glow Tonic – brightens and softens fine lines.
- Sunday Riley Good Genes (Lactic Acid) – expensive, yes, but it delivers glowing, plump skin overnight.
- The Ordinary Glycolic Acid Toner – a simple classic that works wonders over time.
Pro tip: Don’t forget SPF, acids make your skin extra sensitive to sunlight. Without sunscreen, you’re basically undoing all your hard work.
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8. How to Introduce Acids Without Wrecking Your Barrier
Let’s talk safety. Acids are powerful, and with great power comes, well, the risk of over-exfoliation.
How to stay in the safe zone:
- Start slow: Once or twice a week is enough.
- Hydrate: Follow every acid step with a soothing moisturizer.
- Avoid mixing too many actives: Don’t pair acids with retinol or strong vitamin C on the same night.
- Listen to your skin: If it stings, burns, or peels hit pause.
Barrier repair tip: If your skin ever feels stripped, use a recovery cream like Cicaplast Baume B5 (La Roche-Posay) or Naturium Intense Barrier Cream for a few days. Your skin will thank you.
9. Quick Acid Glossary (Because Skincare Shouldn’t Be Confusing)
Here’s your cheat sheet for remembering what each acid does:
| Acid Type | Best For | Main Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Salicylic Acid (BHA) | Oily, acne-prone skin | Unclogs pores, reduces breakouts |
| Glycolic Acid (AHA) | Normal, dull, aging skin | Brightens, smooths, fades spots |
| Lactic Acid (AHA) | Dry, sensitive skin | Hydrates and gently exfoliates |
| Mandelic Acid (AHA) | Hyperpigmentation, deeper tones | Evens skin tone, minimal irritation |
| PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid) | Sensitive skin | Very gentle exfoliation |
| Azelaic Acid | Acne, rosacea-prone skin | Soothes redness, fades marks |
Bookmark this table, because trust me, once you start mixing acids like a skincare chemist, you’ll need it.
Final Thoughts
Finding the right acid isn’t about chasing trends, it’s about understanding your skin. Once you do, acids stop feeling intimidating and start feeling like what they really are: game-changers.
Whether you’re fighting oil, dryness, dullness, or hyperpigmentation, there’s an acid that can help. You just need to know which one’s on your side.
So start slow, stay consistent, and don’t forget your SPF. Because glowing skin isn’t about doing the most, it’s about doing what works for you. 🙂
